A day-trip turned into a vertical-slice view of the middle class at play – and there were a lot of them and they were having a merry old time. Perhaps the first thing that struck my friend and I was just how relaxed Murree was – it may have been bustling and crowded, but there was no sense of tension. The streets were notably clean and the prominent rubbish bins were used by people who would normally throw their litter wherever they liked. There was a sense of civic pride about the place that is certainly not present in many of the places I visit and this was a town that was, as they say, comfy in its own skin.

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